He also offers custom-styled versions for other retro systems like the TI-99 4A, Sega Master System, Atari, MSX, Commodore 64, Amiga, Odyssey, and even Vectrex. This controller - combined with my recently acquired AtariMax Ultimate SD will provide me with hours of retro gaming fun on my ADAM! If you’re interested in getting one of these awesome gamepad controllers visit Retrogameboyz on eBay. If all else fails, you can simply swap the controller in port 1 after the menu screen. For games where this is insufficient you can connect a standard Coleco controller with a Y-cable to port 1 or do what I do and leave a Coleco controller plugged into the second joystick port. This combo will get you through the start screens and select screens of most games. The “select” and “start” buttons on this controller have been wisely mapped to the keypad *️⃣ and 1️⃣ buttons, respectively. However the vast majority will play just fine and (bonus) will be made even more enjoyable by virtue of it simply being more comfortable than the original ColecoVision controller. Of course, by not featuring a numeric keypad like the standard Coleco controller there are some games (mainly ones that utilize overlays) that won’t be playable with this. Not to mention - it just looks great! Retrogameboyz has truly done a wonderful job on this product. The build quality is remarkable and it actually feels even better than I remember the old NES controller being. The care that went into making this controller is very evident when you see it and even more so when you hold it. It arrived this week and its even better than I expected. After all, I spent many hours of my youth holding one! So… when I discovered a shop on eBay that was making & selling custom ColecoVision controllers in this style I had to have one. I’ve always been a big fan of the original NES D-pad style controllers. I was relieved when the familiar beep of ADAM’s SmartWriter greeted me so I excitedly fired up an SGM game ( Thexder) and soaked up the glorious sound! Mission accomplished. I know… definitely not the neatest job! The slight scorch marks on the capacitor had me worried that I might’ve damaged it. Eventually, my persistence paid off and I got the job done. I was nervous! My hands were shaking so much and I couldn’t get the solder to hold the wire in place. As I said earlier I’d never worked with a soldering iron before. See the capacitor located at C88 in the photo? The fix is to solder the wire to the right side of that capacitor. After after a few seconds of trying (and burning the green covering of the wire in the process) I decided it’d be easier to snip the wire as close to the board as I could instead. I hesitantly heated up the soldering iron and got to work trying to remove the wire. I first removed the blob of dried up hot glue that covered the spot where the wire was connected to the board. As for me, I’d honestly never used a soldering iron before so it was a daunting task!Īfter dismantling my ADAM – my one and only ADAM that I’ve had since the 80s – I found the green wire that needed relocation. For experienced hardware tinkerers or engineers this is a very simple job.
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John Lundy wrote a helpful document that sums up the issue and how to fix it. Using a soldering iron.Īfter a week or so of pretending I could live with option one I eventually worked up the nerve to attempt the fix.
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